Just a toy
Rule Numbers: 1
February 1st, 2018:
Wore out a motor in less than a week.
But I got the hang of flying those things by then.
I think the Hubsan was faster, but the JJ1000 at least stays trimmed.
Got a start of a real one/
I bought these two frames just so I would commit myself to building a particular size.
One is a true X design that is geared more for racing and the other is a freestyle on that has the ability to be configured for a extremely low profile frame .
The blue one can be put together with extremely low profile by moving the lower base plate to the bottom like the X, however I would need to be using four separate ESC's
Since the only component I have bought for them so fare is a 4 in one 30 amp, it looks as though I'll be building the True X frame first.
I got a 4 in one for $26.
It appears that the flight controller I want is sold out everywhere at the moment.
Needless to say, it's just a waiting game now and it will probably be over a month from now before I even get to fly one without any video.
You can bet I'm looking forward to flying something with more power than the little toy quadcopters.
Even though the industry is growing quite fast:
The biggest hold up is that because of the high cost and latency involved with digital video signals, pilots are stuck to using analog signals for video.
Some day when they do go with digital, then maybe they will be using big flat screens instead of goggles.
I think it would be really cool to fly one from a makeshift cockpit as if it was like a full scale flight simulator but with a real flying vehicle involved.
The picture on the bottom shows how low of center of gravity I could get on the blue freestyle frame.
No telling how good these frames are, however they were cheap enough to buy a second one just for parts.
Just like a bird....
Rule Numbers: 4
January 26th, 2018:
It was my first Quadcopter
It took a few days, and a few batteries.
Then I finally got the hang of it.
The funny things always need to have the trims adjusted, and being used to planes. Once it was om the ground about fifteen yards from me, I did a stupid thing like adjusting the trims and somehow hit the throttle.
And it was gone, just like that.
I miss that little guy. It was like a little puppy to me.
If you are interested in getting one of the many toy drones:
The thing you should know about those USB chargers that are supplied with them.
They tend to charge them at about .4 amps, which will surely burn your batteries out prematurly.
I took the connector and made an adapter to fit my ballance charger and charge the 380's at .2 amp and the 500's at .3 amps.
The 380's (Eachines) ended up being the better batteries with the most punch.
After flying my Hacker for a couple months:
Rule Numbers: 16
January 22nd, 2018:
I pulled the Z-84 out of storage and took it for a spin....
I have to say the little P-51 has got me spoiled, and I can't figure out how I could ever fly the Z-84 as well as a did.
The 84 is possibly faster, but I just can't draw a line like I can with my Hacker.
I used the substituted 3mm carbon rods for the 2mm that were meant for the sides and used them for the Ailerons, elevator, stinger and rudder.
I managed to put my own flat spar with the first half of the dihedral, along with a stock 2mm round stock for the wing, adding a 6 inch 3mm carbon rods towards the railing edge to keep the wing from splitting in a head on crash.
For the Motor
I went with DYS 2830 at 1,100kv
Currently settled on like the cut down 1070E that is trimmed down to a 9 inch propeller.
I've been using the Volantex 30 amp ESC from my Pheonix 1600.
I run it on 3 cell 1,300 amp batteries and can bring it in after 7 minutes and still be a good storage level at about 3.8 per cell.
I used E-max 12.4 gram servos and gave each aileron one of it's own so that I have flaperons for landing, differential for turning and of course a relief mode setting.
I mix in some rudder, but for the most part I prefer differential more however, I use a straight rudder control to fly knife edge
I have to say that it is my best flying aircraft.
Got a 50 amp Speed controller
and a bigger motor.
Rule Numbers: Just Fast
January 15th, 2018:
It will go straight up on a strong battery.
DYS 3530 1,100 KV with a 1070 prop.
The thing just scoots on three cell.
It just came green
I sure didn't order it that way.
First Corsair I've ever seen that wasn't blue.
>August 18th, 2017:
More of the bit with my controller:
The 2000 with full house really doesn't need a motor anyway.
Kinna sucky that a company will take advantage of people.
Funny thing; Now that I've got the right propeller sizes, the stock jobber is about the same thing as the after-market I bought for the 1600. I loosened the Allen screw on the DSY but it wouldn't brake loose. The shaft isn't wanting to switch around for me. (Same motors, 10 less grams with the DYS.
Soldered in a $4.31 Banggood ESC into the Z-84:
Got throttle from the bottom and 24 grams less at doing it.
Got to find the back door:
Rule Numbers: 4 & 35
August 14th, 2017:
It's not like they want to give you full house, with a motor, -even if you give up a channel for one
However, I came across a sail type with a motor on the 6th channel
I'm wondering If I can go with flap or just another set of ailerons. (I'm thinking aileron, aileron split..
I did get the Ph-1660 up with flaps on the rudder channel, which gave me an added foil adjustment. It helped give it so much speed, I needed to make sure I cold land the thing. Just landing and either one of my planes today was such a task. (I've got to add a couple grams on the nose of the 2000 and that should claim it down.)
The 1600 just no walk in the park and my landing strip is nothing more than a patch of grass I have to aim for.
Gotta come in over the street when no cars are coming. Flaps made it too floaty and in the 1600, I resorted to the good ol flapper-on mix to land, -fast.
Gotta say, if you've got 7-8 mph, the 2000 is going to stay in the air. Kinna silly t even worry about putting a motor in that one.
Iknow what they want, they want you to spend the extra $100 for the full house.
But what do you expect from a company that sells the Radian at twice the price as the better plane?
I figure another day of sitting down and messing with different programs, I'm going to figure out how to get a true full house to work with the motor on this thing.
Another thing that is even more important is adjust the wing foil as I do with the flapper on. (Something I ran into a road block with.) Kinna pisses you off. No two servo flaps with a motor? What kind of crap is that?
I wasn't using the Rudder anyway.
br>August 13th, 2017:
w/servo screws, -near 22 grams I don't have in the tail of the Ph-2000 any longer.
Pulled everything except the carbon out of the Ph-1600 too.
I realized that without the rudder, -that I wasn't using, -could be supplying a channel for full house with a motor.
Like I've got plenty of servos for such a thing.
All I have to do is figure out how I want to change a few different channel options, with mixes and all. (Where ever that direction, that will lead me.)
I'll keep you clued into how I managed such a thing .
Got Rid of the funny looking nose on the 2000, now that I think I can land it more civil like.
Back when the Rudder meant something:
You can see the epoxy elevator mod. & I should mention the scotch tape on the elevator clasp. When you loose your elevator, you loose the most critical connection on a plane and you loose control of the flight.
It got down to the three flight modes I was using: <<<<<<<<<< ***************
August 12th, 2017:
I got it down to the adjustment for relief
Got flapper-on for landing and straight wing foil for slower lift.
The thing I was looking for is the exact number and not a second switch combo to find the best relief pitch. Got it down to either a 11 or 12.
It was the 11th
The plane is going to be even nicer with about 55 grams less motor weight. Which is like loosing half of the motor weight and like dropping half a battery weight.) I figure I'll be running with running gear that is about equal to what I would need for natural ballast. To the point where having any disadvantage is the drag of the folding prop, but I even went with an extra size small, just for those days when you don't rally want a 9050 and go with a 8050.
Got to a realization a bit late.
I should not have glued my wing halves together just yet.
Reason being, I can tell just by looking at the uneven amount of aileron adjusted into it, especially when relieved.
I figure I need to cut the wings apart and either reshape the bases of the wings, or even shim with strapping tape to compensate for the differences in wing foils.
I'm willing to bet the two wings had different thinnesses when it gets down to it. I think I want to realign, and then re-glue the thing .
Too bad I did it in epoxy and not hot glue, However, I've had good luck with taking epoxy apart.
I gotta say, for light 6-8 mph winds, that the 1600 is the best handling plane I've ever had. I just get the feeling that I could tweak the two wing foils just a bit better.
Second modification was wedging the stabilizer:
Made a third and a two third length shim out of those bring your own phone credit card sim card.
Raised the front up about 2 mm.
Next was trimming the rudder and making a hinge and reinforcement for the lower section.
Going to be covering the rear cooling hole but I but two small one up at the front wing.
I use some white colored electrical tape from walmart on the leading edges of my wings and stabilizer wing. Also the new gap at the front of the tail.
I've gotta say, I really don't use the rudder. I prefer 15-20% deferential.
Once I got my shims in there.
I line up the Stabilizer and secure things with a few drops of hot glue.
Guess where some good planes start?
Rule Numbers: 40
August 10th, 2017:
Something I should have started more than a decade ago.
Don't expect to see much action out of his box for another twenty days or so. And I do need to perform a surfboard repair before I take one anymore projects.
I don't really expect the type of wind this plane will need anyway,.. and I just supplied someone a pair a sunglasses. Something else, not exactly within my budget.
None the less, Rule 40, I'm not going to make the same mistake I made with the F-20, -by making it too light and without the ability to take a good crash every once in awhile.
Just taking on a task from a box of parts for durability in acrobatic aircraft that is known for its speed.
Before I put anything together,
the first modification was performed.
It was by bushing some sun cure surfboard epoxy and wrapping 2oz fiberglass cloth around the middle section of the elevator.
Another Helpful Hint:
You should have better luck with your decals if:
You don't try to place them in the cup of the wing tips.
I use a small block of foam for a scqueegy. (The black block packing foam for original batteryout of the back of my Spectrum 6)
My Phoenix 1600:
Rule Numbers: 40
August 5th, 2017:
One of those cases when Less is More
Less of a sail plane and more of a stunt/slope plane.
(In comparison to the Phoenix 2000, -of course.)
I pulled the 4023-850kv motor out of the Ph-2000 and upgrade the Ph-1600 with it, because little 2822-1050kv motor that was supplied with with the 1600 came with the same 1060 propeller size came with the bigger motors like the only guys that seem happy with the motors are the ones using only 2-cell batteries.) (Funny as hell is that they even supplied the wrong size of propeller coupling for the spinner.)
Another thing about these two projects is that I only have a six channel transmitter; and I wanted to try out the full house experience on the 2000, motor and upgraded the Ph-1600 with it.
The Ph-1600 has a much larger percentage of aileron to wing ratio and rally doesn't need the flaps and even though it was supplied with servos for the flaps, I took them out and strengthened the flap areas with a few smears of hot glue and Tape.
Since I've come up with some worthy modifications.
I figure that I'll have to put together some helpful hints for my Origami page.
I'll have to take some photos and re-size them before I do though. So if you are a RC hobbiest, you may want to check back at the Origami page later on this week.
As for comparison between the Phoenix 1600 & 2000:
The 2000 is the better sail plane when it comes to thermal gliding or sloping with lighter winds.
As for the Phoenix 1600: the plane is faster at sloping, however it does require a little more wind to carry the weight of the running gear. But the thing I like most is how responsive it is and the control I have with it is just top notch, as if it has full house but it doesn't.
It flies inverted like nothing else.
I'm probably going to put the bigger 4023-850kv (116 grams) motor back into the Ph-2000, because I've got a 2830-1000kv (60 grams) and two 8050 & 9050 folding propeller sets on the way for the PH-1600. (I figure that the lighter running gear should move around better with 50 grams less weight.)
The question is whether I can get one of the three couplings I'm getting to fit the plastic spinner I have. Needless to say, just getting your hands on the right stuff is a bit frustrating. Like I bought a aluminum spinner for Hobby King and it had a 3mm coupler instead of the 3.17mm like it stated. So I tried using the 4mm coupler on the 4023 and the spinner is not balanced worth a shit. Wish me luck with the different brand I've ordered this time around.
Rule Numbers: 14, 35, 42 & 44
June 23, 2017:
You got to have a quiver if you don't want to get bored.
This one flies like a bat out of hell.
Instead of the 2200kv, mike most people go with, I went with a DYS 2822 1800kv and a cut down 7060 propeller.
It's got more torque and runs on about 150 watts, -about 100 watts less. Which int urn assures much longer flights.
With a 1300 battery, it actually slopes pretty well. With a 2,200 it will fly under power for about 30 minutes.
I used some tinny washers singles on each side and double on the top of the motor mount to take away some of the downward pitch, because some have claimed that torque from powering up the throttle created a drop in some cases, so with the bigger propeller I went the safe route and made it climb a little.
I used Emax 12.4 gram metal geared and ball bearing servos that have the same side foot print as the typical 9 grammer, but they are only 9mm thick instead of 12. (They have real good torque and being as thin as they are. they are great for wing servos.) I even upgrading my Pheonix with the same servos
I'm using a Lemon true diversity receiver and a Xtra BL 35 AHV amp ESC a friend gave to me. (If only I could get the brake to work, it would slope a lot better.)
None the less, it flies with very good control while at any speed. No doubt, the plane has many fans out there because just like the Pheonix 2000, there are hundreds of pages on them in the chat rooms and reviews.
Back at it with a Phoenix 2000:
Rule Numbers: 4, 14, 29 & 35
May 22nd, 2017:
Over 30 hours of flight time in the first week.
My first motor plane:
At least I should say that the motor is like a back-up that one will use to get out of trouble or if the winds are not co-operating.
I can pack a 2,200 mh battery in it but my 1,800 makes it handle better, however a 1,000 or 1,300 would be even better if the winds are good for slope gliding. (And can you believe I put in over 30 hours of flight time in the first week?)
After seeing who the plane will react in strong winds via camera placed on the end of the wing, I opted out of the flap option and just glued the flaps closed and stuck the decals over the hinge areas. Reason being is that the manufacture put carbon spars in the ailerons, but not the flaps and in the video, the flaps were just flapping like crazy, (and not doing the quality of flight any favors.)
So I opted for the airplane program instead of the sailplane program in my new DMX-6.
So I got Flaperons program going instead.
Which helps slow it down for landing, and since I'm able to program up to 5 different modes, I'm using three, so I can use 45%, 15% and no flaperons. (The 15% is good for adding lift in light winds and allow for a little more control on the final approach of the landings.) Oh yeah, I also mix in a little elevator mix into the flaperons.
I've got a switch set-up for the ailerons and rudder mix option. Even assigned a toggle switch for the option of two differential rates for nice looking turns.
I also assigned a couple toggles for duel rates and expos for my elevator and ailerons.
While I was over in Australia, took up slope gliding with RC radio planes, a hobby I always wanted to do. It is more of a hobby and sport combined if you ask me. The hobby part if it is that you have to be some sort of a engineer and craftsman when assembling the kit and it's the fine details of craftsmanship and engineering that a pilot can sense when flying these planes.
And for a beginner: once you have it together you have to be coordinated enough to actually fly the thing. Also the sport part of the deal is ;- if you don't do
so well - you will get some exercise climbing around the hillside, trying to find your plane.
Dave Kellogg, a sponsored pilot mentioned, that back in the olden days when radio gear was expensive and planes were made out of balsa wood, it was common a pilot could spend 6 hours fixing a plane for every hour they flew it.
Now days there's EPP foam gliders.
(The foam is usually used in bodyboards)
When it's used in slope gliders, its light and almost indestructible. You can often
your plane, walk over (or climb the hill,) retrieve and you may throw it off the hill again the same day. No big deal.
As a result, Dave said, "Pilots are getting better faster."
This is my F-20 Tigershark. The kit comes from New Zealand. It has a JW wing foil. I was in the process of building one in Australia, but that was cut short. Randy, a dentist here in SD county won a kit through a ;raffle drawing. He sold me this one for $50.oo. I ended up with a couple hundred dollars worth of electronics into it and more hours than I would want to admit. But it sure flies nice. It can cover a
lot of area pretty fast and it performs stunts real well.
With 20 winds or better, you just throw this baby into the pit and the adrenalin kicks in. It's characteristics are kind of a blend of a fuselage type plane and a delta wing. I've had to add 102
grams of weight in winds
of 30 - 40 mph. It just eats it up and takes up space.
One thing I wish I would have done is just made it stronger because the plan doesn't want to fly in light winds in the first place, it needs to be stronger to survive crashed and if you usually have to add weight to it, then what was the point in holding back on the strapping tape for?
Unfortunately a couple days before my dad was going to come by for a visit. Someone hammered me with another signal and I lost it in the ocean. Some lady thought she was going to help me by fetching it out if the water. She didn't know what she was doing when she grabbed it and it cost me rear wing and a two piece rear elevator I had made out of balsa wood instead of the corrugated plastic ones the kit came with.
It took a new wiring and battery pack. A new Electron six FM receiver, and a few 85MG servos. On Jan. 11 it launched again. Talk about adrenalin.
This is my Rader. I call it the Jester. It's good for beginners as well as experts. Good for stunts and those days when the wind in kinna light. My computer type transmitter is an Optic 6. It's able to save the settings for 8 different planes and the control module on the back lets me change the frequency at will.
Some times I wonder that for my F-20, a Flash Five would be better, because you can program the flapperon control to the throttle stick. Take the pin out and the thing will self center. Then you could use the trim button to set it and the stick would be like active differential. But if the Flash Five control feels like the Laser ;non computer controller, I'd forget that idea because Hi-tech Lazer transmitters just suck,
I just couldn't fly worth anything with the one I have.
On the Optic 6, I've got to un-solder the pot on the side and the stick and find out if they are the same resistance. If so, I'm in and I'll switch the wiring around. Hell, Hi-Tech could have just wrote better software.
Maybe I'll call or e-mail them to find out the pot values.
March 31st, 2012:
Flew my F-20 Tigershark yesterday. Now that I've got the spring set up on the throttle of my controller - to indent in the middle - for flapperons, I'm going to turn off the Flapperon mix program and program the two programmable mix channels to set the trim on the flaps through the joy sticks. Way cool, should have done it last year. It will be nice having pre-set flaps instead of having an easy to bump lever thingy on the side.
Today I'm going to get an earlier start on the swing of the wind. It's blowing like hell out of the south east all morning and I figure it's about to swing south west about now.
Update: got rained on after about ten minutes of too much south in it. Should have been on it yesterday instead of doing this shit.
Update April 2,'12: Boy, those programmable mix channels have a hell of a glitch. I went back to just using the Flapperon program and I'm trimming things down tight so the the flap lever moves the flaps only a small amount, so that the lever only fine tunes the flaps. April 1st, I added two ounces and flew on over 30 mph winds. A fast landing wasn't so kind on my wing tip. (of which I've been debating whether to put a radius on the wing tips.It would be a good time to do it because glue is going to throw the balance off.)
Kinna missing it.
Rule Numbers: 22 & 26
April 27, 2017:
Getting back into flying RC Sailplanes:
Just watching others fly to other day was relaxing.
So I figured that I'd dust off my old planes and replace the batteries.
Or should I also say, patch them up?
Tattered as they are, the question about just replacing them just doesn't register as much as I thought because things have changed in the industry so much that my electronics are pretty much obsolete.
Single Christal type FM transmitters are just not used much anymore because everyone is going to the 2.4 and the EPP foam type slope gliders are almost a thing of the past.
It took a little looking only to discover that the plane I wanted to build, that used to come in a bare kit for about $35 just doesn't exist anymore. Therefore I'm left with the idea of recovering my old Raider.
The tough decision for me is what to do with my F-20. It's been busted up so much, it no longer flies like it used to and around here, we seldom have enough wind to fly it. Therefore I've been contemplating on dismantling it and rebuilding it into a single delta wing type plane, similar to the JW plane that the front wing foil came from.
I figure I can make a lighter plane out of it, so that I can fly something that is faster then the Raider and yet fly in 15 mph wind, -hopefully. But the difficult part about it is saying good bye to the F-20. I'm still debating on it, so I figure I should take a trip down to Kerny Mesa and see what kind of kits are still around. However what I would like to pick up on is a fiberglass plane, but I just don't think my pocket book can afford one. None the less, I figure I need to get back into it just to get my chops back.
It is kind of a neat sport/hobby, because it can not only be relaxing, but a adrenalin rush as well.
My Synchro-link truck:
A whole fleet of trucks in one.
Check it out at MiniRollOffTrucks.com
A friend once said:
"Everybody needs a hobby.
Mine happens to be drinking.
I had to sell all my tools and I've moved back to my mom's house.
I'm starting all over again.
JP took some shots of a flying session with my Canterbury F-20 with a JW wing core
One thing for sure:
You can bet I won't be posting much about my personal life any longer.
However I would like to mention a little bit about this hobby of mine with flying RC planes and such.
The thing I learn most about it is that the industry is into selling you a bunch of foam no matter what the cost.
See the deal is, you've got to wonder if they even have a human being unloading the molds that inject foam these planes are made in. The sad part of it is, they save about two dollars on the cost of each plane by putting a speed controller in it that will not handle the amperage it actually needs once you get an handle on it and start running the underpowered plane at full throttle.
It doesn't matter what brand it is, they all do it because they know that at $2 per plane and at a million planes per year, that equals to Two million dollars more profit and when that speed controllers give s out and it shuts off the power to your plane, it is certainly going to crash and you will be looking at buying another plane to replace it.
Needless to say, they want you stupid and they've got plenty of people in the chat rooms that will tell you that they've had no problems using the stock speed controllers.
Just like when a manufacture like tower hobbies put a collet type propeller adapter on a motor instead of a three screw type propeller adapter on their planes, they know that it will come loose sooner or later; like the one that came loose on my Corsair today.
The sad thing about it is if I would have received the real Amax power connector from a supplier instead of the substitute piece of junk, I would have had the better power train in it already and my plane by now and it would not have gone into the ocean today.
Must I say that going to RCgroups.com is just like going to Pickuptruck dot com.
It's all the same thing; they want you stupid, because there is more profit in it.
May 21st & 22nd brought in wind over 40 mph to the central coast. It's been a long time since I piloted the F-20. You sure can get out of practice. To bad there isn't many places to fly around Morro Bay and Cambria, where the wind tends to have too much north in it.
May 3 & 4 2007 brought some wind, On the 4th just before it got dark, I had to add 32 grams to my F-20, Met a guy who took some pictures. Lets hope he send us some. We worked together on the shots and he took over 100 shots with his telephoto lens camera.
April 15th we had some wind that got to 15-20 and I was able to fly my Tigershark.
March 27,'07 Had some 30 mph wind. I added 32 grams and it wasn't really enough. Crashed twice and had one real scary landing, but it survived.
Jan. 16th, "07:
The week supplied three afternoons good enough winds to get three sessions in. There were a couple days I flew my Rader.
Had two scary landings because the wind was too north and I had to bring it down in the middle of a housing development.
Folks, if you see people flying an RC plane. And it comes down somewhere near you, please don't pick it up. Many of us have had our flaps screwed up just because someone picked up our plane up wrong.
Is Reading one of your favorite Origamis?
How about Writing?
Helpful Hints for Pet Owners
This is called a Spinner
Its an ultra light stunt kite.
Got pretty good at it, and its something that it more enjoyable to do when listening to music.
Feb. 23rd'07 winds kicked up about 25-30 today, I added 32 grams to my F-20.
The wind was a bit north though and it left a low ceiling.
Feb. 28th brought enough wind for my F-20. The wind varied. I started out with 28 grams of ballast, but settled on 21 for when it got light.
Have you been to
Check out this link to a different kind of patented WingFan design
This page is in memory of Dave Kellogg, a fellow surfer and about the only sponsored pilot I've ever known. Anybody that knew him, knew he was always a wealth of information.
Dave charged my batteries a few times.
He also read all three of my books.